Your wind mitigation report in Florida is the most powerful document you can hand your insurance company. Most homeowners file it once, forget it, and never verify whether they’re receiving every credit it entitles them to. The report uses a state-standardized form called the OIR-B1-1802, issued by the Florida Office of Insurance Regulation. Florida law requires every residential insurer to apply the discounts it documents. Understanding what each section means is, therefore, the difference between a credit you capture and one you leave on the table.
Why the OIR-B1-1802 Matters More Than Ever in 2026
The OIR-B1-1802 has anchored Florida’s wind mitigation discount system since the state standardized the form after Hurricane Andrew. Florida Statute §627.0629 requires the OIR to update the form every five years based on current wind-loss research. As a result of a 2024 Residential Wind-Loss Mitigation Study, the form was updated effective April 1, 2026 — the most significant revision in years.
What the 2026 Update Means for Your Credits
That update matters for two reasons. First, features that previously earned limited credits may now earn larger ones under new loss-reduction data. Second, inspections completed before April 1, 2026 remain valid for five years — but homeowners who recently replaced a roof or added storm protection may benefit from a fresh inspection on the new form to capture improved credit tiers.
If your current wind mitigation report is more than three years old, or if you’ve made improvements since the inspection, evaluate whether a new one would produce a better result. Meanwhile, understanding how Florida homeowners overpay on wind and flood insurance often starts right here — with an outdated 1802 form sitting in an insurer’s file.
The Seven Sections of the OIR-B1-1802 — Decoded
A licensed inspector evaluates your home across seven categories. Each category drives a specific set of credits your insurer must apply. Here’s what each one means and why it matters to your premium.
1. Building Code Compliance
Did your builder permit the home after March 1, 2002? If so, it generally earns a baseline credit automatically. In Miami-Dade and Broward counties — Florida’s High Velocity Hurricane Zone (HVHZ) — inspectors apply the South Florida Building Code (SFBC-94) standard instead. Homes built before 2002 don’t receive this credit, but strong scores in other categories can offset the gap.
2. Roof Covering
This section documents the type and age of your roof covering. A roof installed under a valid permit after 2001 — and therefore built to Florida Building Code standards — typically earns a credit. The installation standard matters more than the material itself. An asphalt shingle roof installed to code scores better than an aging tile roof installed before modern standards applied.
3. Roof Deck Attachment
This is one of the highest-impact categories on the form. It measures how the roof decking — the plywood or OSB beneath your shingles — fastens to the trusses. The rating runs from basic 6d nails up to 8d ring-shank nails at tighter spacing. Stronger attachment patterns cut the risk of roof deck loss in a hurricane, and insurers price that reduction directly into your premium. A single nail pattern upgrade, properly documented, can generate hundreds of dollars in annual savings.
4. Roof-to-Wall Connection
This category evaluates how the roof structure connects to your home’s walls. The scale runs from toenails (simple angled nails, weakest) through clips, single wraps, and double wraps at the top. Double wraps loop entirely around the truss and nail on both sides. They provide the strongest resistance to roof uplift and earn the largest credit in this category. Many older homes in Pinellas, Lee, and Sarasota counties carry toenail connections. Fortunately, upgrading to hurricane straps is relatively affordable and often produces meaningful premium reductions.
5. Roof Geometry
The shape of your roof determines how wind forces act on the structure. A hip roof — where all four sides slope downward — deflects wind more effectively than a gable roof, which exposes two flat triangular ends to wind pressure. Hip roofs therefore earn a larger discount. Inspectors evaluate combination roofs by the percentage of roofline that is hip-shaped. If your home qualifies as a full hip, confirm the inspector documents it correctly — this is one category where documentation errors consistently cost homeowners money.
6. Secondary Water Resistance (SWR)
Secondary water resistance refers to a self-adhering underlayment applied directly to the roof deck beneath the shingles. Its purpose is to block water intrusion if the roof covering tears away during a storm. Florida requires this layer on all new roofs permitted after 2008, but many older homes lack it. Insurers reward its presence with a meaningful credit. In many cases, adding SWR during a future roof replacement is the cheapest single upgrade a homeowner can make before the next inspection.
7. Opening Protection
Opening protection typically drives the largest credits on the entire form. This section evaluates how well windows, doors, skylights, and the garage door resist windborne debris. The rating tiers run from no protection (no discount) through basic panels up to impact-resistant glazing and doors meeting large-missile impact standards.
How Much Can Opening Protection Save You?
Full opening protection — every glazed and non-glazed opening covered to the highest standard — can cut wind premiums by 30–45% in coastal counties like Monroe, Collier, and Palm Beach. Storm shutters covering all openings earn credits comparable to impact windows at a fraction of the cost. Shutters typically run $4,000–$8,000 installed, versus $15,000–$25,000 for full impact glass replacement.
Step-by-Step: How to Use Your Wind Mitigation Report Florida
Pull Your Report and Check the Date
Start by locating your current OIR-B1-1802. Your insurer or agent keeps it on file. If you can’t get a copy, request one directly from your inspector — they must provide it. Then check the inspection date. The form stays valid for five years, provided no material changes have been made to the structure. A roof replacement, window upgrade, or structural modification requires a new inspection to capture the updated credits.
Read the Seven Sections and Find Your Gaps
Work through each category. For every section where your home scored below the top tier, ask your agent what the premium difference would be if you moved up one level. This conversation often reveals upgrades with a clear payback period. Then verify the credits appear on your declarations page. Your insurer must apply every credit the form documents — but errors do occur. Compare the 1802 categories against the discount line items on your policy and flag any missing credits to your agent in writing.
Consider an Updated Inspection
If your report is more than three years old, the April 2026 form revision may allow your inspector to document existing features more favorably. Furthermore, if you’ve replaced your roof or added shutters since the last inspection, a new report is essential. Before scheduling one, explore the My Safe Florida Home program — it offers free inspections and matching grants of up to $10,000 for qualifying improvements, including SWR, roof deck attachment upgrades, and opening protection. Also review the questions to bring to your agent at renewal so you’re ready to act on what the new report reveals.
Keep the Report When You Switch Carriers
Your OIR-B1-1802 travels with you. When you move to a new carrier, submit the existing form immediately — don’t wait for the new insurer to ask for it. A delayed submission means delayed credits, sometimes for an entire policy year.
What If Your Inspector Got It Wrong?
Errors on the OIR-B1-1802 are more common than most homeowners expect — and they almost always run against the homeowner. The most frequent mistakes involve roof geometry (a home that qualifies as a full hip gets documented as a combination), roof-to-wall connection type (clips listed instead of wraps), and opening protection (a partial rating when all openings are actually covered).
How to Challenge an Error
Two options exist. First, request a re-inspection from a different qualified inspector and submit the corrected form to your insurer. Second, if the insurer disputes the corrected form, the Florida Department of Financial Services handles consumer complaints and can intervene when an insurer fails to apply documented credits. For a full walkthrough of what a wind mitigation inspection covers and how to prepare for one, see our detailed guide.
Your wind mitigation report in Florida is a living document — not a one-time filing. As your home improves and the form updates, revisiting the OIR-B1-1802 is one of the most reliable ways to reduce what you pay without reducing what you’re covered for.
Download the Free Guide for a complete checklist of documents — including your wind mitigation report — to review before every renewal. Want a personalized analysis of whether your current 1802 captures every credit your home qualifies for? Order the Full Optimization Report and we’ll go through it section by section.
FAQ
Q: How much can a wind mitigation report in Florida actually save on my premium?
Savings vary based on your home’s features and current wind premium. However, homeowners in coastal counties commonly see reductions of $1,500–$3,000 per year after submitting a complete OIR-B1-1802 with strong scores. Opening protection alone can cut the wind portion of your premium by 30–45%. The inspection itself typically costs $75–$150 and pays for itself many times over.
Q: Does my wind mitigation report expire, and do I need a new one after a roof replacement?
Yes to both. The OIR-B1-1802 stays valid for five years from the inspection date, provided no material changes occur. A roof replacement is a material change — and it typically improves scores in multiple categories at once: roof covering, roof deck attachment, and sometimes SWR. Get a new inspection immediately after a roof replacement to lock in those improved credits for the next policy cycle.
Q: Can I submit my own wind mitigation form, or must a licensed inspector complete it?
A qualified inspector must complete and sign the form under Florida Statute §627.711. Qualified inspectors include licensed home inspectors who have completed OIR-approved hurricane mitigation training, as well as licensed contractors and engineers. Your insurer won’t accept a form from anyone outside those categories — and an improperly credentialed form can cost you your discounts entirely.
Q: What changed on the updated OIR-B1-1802 that took effect April 1, 2026?
The April 2026 revision reflects findings from a 2024 Residential Wind-Loss Mitigation Study under Florida Statute §627.0629. The updated form revises which construction techniques earn credits based on current wind-loss data — some categories now carry higher credit tiers than before. The Florida Office of Insurance Regulation published the updated form on its wind mitigation resources page. If your existing inspection predates April 2026 and your home has strong features, ask a licensed inspector whether re-inspecting under the new form would improve your result.
This article is for educational purposes only and does not constitute licensed insurance advice. Consult a licensed Florida insurance agent for guidance specific to your policy and property.